Travel to Japan

Suntory Museum

The Suntory Museum, which you can tour in about 30 minutes, is that fantastically modern-looking structure you see near the aquarium, designed by well-known architect Tadao Ando. It stages changing exhibitions in airy rooms against a dramatic background of the sea beyond its glass walls. Past exhibits have included posters by Toulouse-Lautrec, paintings by German expressionists, and glass by Emile Gallé; call or check the Meet Osaka quarterly for current information. There's also a 3-D IMAX theater with scenes so real you'll swear those fish on the screen are about to swim into your lap, a good museum shop, the Sky Lounge (perfect for taking a break), and a restaurant, Café Solare.

World SPA

This is the most luxurious and ambitious bathhouse I've ever seen. It can accommodate up to 5,000 people and draws upon hot springs brought up from 891m (2,970 ft.) below the earth's surface. On its roof, in a large hangarlike room, is a covered swimming complex that includes a pool, a slide, a wave pool, a sunning terrace, and a wading pool (rental bathing suits available). The rest of the large complex is divided into themed, geographical bathing zones, which are rotated between the sexes and include luxurious locker rooms. At the Asian Zone, for example, Middle Eastern music and tiled mosaics set the tone for the Turkish bath, while China is represented by a medicinal bath. Massage is also available. If you're timid about going to a public bath, this one will convert you. If you're already a fan, you'll want to move in -- note, however, that at 5am you're charged for a new day. And sorry, people with tattoos are not allowed.

Sega Amusement Theme Park

I suppose it could be argued that you haven't experienced today's Japan unless you've visited at least one Joypolis, the reigning king of amusement arcades. This one, on the eighth and ninth floors of a shopping arcade complete with a Ferris wheel on top, overloads the senses with lots of flashing lights, bells and whistles, and throngs of squealing kids and teenagers. In addition to arcade games, virtual rides simulate gliding through the air or shooting the rapids of a wild river. Note: Children under the age of 16 aren't allowed here after 7pm and that some "rides" carry height restrictions, with rules enforced by what -- the joy police?

Shitennoji Temple

Founded 1,400 years ago as the first officially established temple in Japan, Shitennoji Temple is the spiritual heart of Osaka. It was constructed in 593 by Prince Shotoku, who is credited with introducing Buddhism to Japan. However, like most wooden structures in Japan, its buildings have been destroyed repeatedly through the centuries by fire and war, including the 1615 Tokugawa raid on Osaka Castle, and World War II. And through the centuries, the buildings have been faithfully reconstructed exactly as they were in the 6th century, with the Main Gate, the five-story Buddhist Pagoda, the Main Golden Hall, and the Lecture Hall all on a north-south axis. Japanese flock to Shitennoji to pay respects to Prince Shotoku, who remains a revered, popular figure even today. There's also a turtle sanctuary. But the best thing to do here is wander the temple's newly restored Japanese landscape garden, first laid out during the Tokugawa regime and a lovely oasis with its manicured bushes, meandering streams, and waterfall.

Sam & Dave Four

With exposed, wrapped pipes and fluorescent lighting, this bar with a dance floor and pool table stages events several times a month, including salsa lessons every Tuesday. Happy hour is until 9pm. It attracts both a Japanese and gaijin crowd. Attracting a larger foreign clientele is Sam & Dave Five in Nagahoribashi, across from the post office (tel. 06/6251-5333), which has an even bigger dance floor and holds salsa nights on Thursdays; upscale Sam & Dave Two Shinsaibashi, 1 block east of Midosuji St. next to McDonald's (tel. 06/6243-6848), is the hot spot for hip hop, soul, and R&B. Hours are Sunday through Thursday 7pm to 4am, Friday to Saturday 7pm to 5:30am.

Pig and Whistle

This is probably the best-known and one of the oldest ex-patriate bars in Osaka, as well as one of the easiest to find. Through the years, the number of foreign customers has fallen to less than 30% (I remember when it was almost exclusively foreign), but remaining are its friendly atmosphere, dartboards for entertainment, happy hour until 7:30pm, and munchies that include, of course, fish and chips. Hours are Sunday through Thursday 5pm to midnight, Friday to Saturday 5pm to 1am. There's also a branch in Umeda south of Osaka Station at 2-5 Sonezaki (tel. 06/6361-3198; open daily 5pm-midnight).